PNW Week 2 - June 24 to June 30

After a week on the road we're settling in to a loose routine and fine tuning the organization of our stuff. Tight ship!

June 23 & 24 Clear Lake State Park, Clear Lake, Iowa

In the morning Jonathan puts our destination into Google Maps and applies the 'avoid freeways' filter. This has us taking the back roads and routing us through some pretty interesting small towns. Then I plug the route information into ChatGPT and ask for highly rated lunch restaurants and quirky tourist attractions. Mason City, Iowa is first up and here we visit the last remaining Frank Lloyd Wright designed hotel and his Stockman House. Though he never lived in Mason City the town's architectural history celebrates Wright's work with its artsy downtown square and many neighborhoods and houses of the architect's Prairie School design.

After our self guided tour it's time for lunch. There is a Hy-Vee just around the corner and it is fried pork cutlet sandwich Tuesday. Score!

On to the site where music legend Buddy Holly's plane crashed killing him, Ritchie Valens & J.P. Richardson, "the Big Bopper," along with the young pilot. The actual site is a 10 minute walk from the parking lot through a cornfield. This "attraction" is remote and even so we meet several other couples on the trek.

We arrive at Clear Lake State Park and still full from lunch so it's leftovers for dinner followed by a little TV. After visiting the Buddy Holly crash sight earlier in the day we decide to stream The Buddy Holly Story. Clear Lake is where the music legend played his last concert and there's plenty more to see about him right here in town tomorrow.

There is rain in the forecast for today so we start the day about 10 miles away from Clear Lake in Forrest City Iowa; home of the Winnebago Visitor Center and Factory Service Center and the specifically the Travato factory. So we set off to see the Mother Ship. As typical with our timing Travato factory tours haven't yet started for the season but they have an amazing Historical museum and a movie about the Travato build which was worth the drive.

By now it's thunder storming and our afternoon Freedom Boat club reservation has been cancelled. A perfect time to go to the Surf Ballroom where Buddy Holly played his last concert. It's part concert hall and part museum of the endless roster of music greats who have played this venue with of course a big focus on Buddy Holly.

We grab a quick lunch in town and when we come out the sun is shining! We call Freedom Boat Club and sure enough there is a window of good weather to go boating before the late afternoon weather system rolls in. Happy, happy! It was an action packed day and we're exhausted. A quick dinner of chicken curry and and early bedtime for these happy campers.

Built in 1909, this was one of 6 hotels built by Frank Lloyd Wright. The others either burned, were torn down, or repurposed.

The Mason City Hotel suffered many unfortunate refurbs over the years but in the past decade it has been restored to it's original design and is operating as a hotel once again.

The Stockman House.

Though he never lived in Mason City the town's architectural history celebrates Wright's work with its artsy downtown square.

Finally a proper Iowa fried pork loin sandwich!

The trail head to the Buddy Holly memorial

Out in the middle of a cornfield lies the memorial site.

Various tokens of remembrance are left behind by visitors. The young pilot, Roger Peterson, 21, also died that night and to the right is his memorial.

The parking lot at the Buddy Holly crash site.

The Winnebago visitor center is a well done museum of the history of their RVs. This was one of the original travel trailers from 1959.

Some of today's travels trailer designs are not all that different.

The Surf Ballroom stage.

The Surf Ballroom wall of fame.

t's always great to be out on the water. We can hardly believe we're boating in Iowa.

Bella feels right at home in a boat.

Chicken curry is an easy and delicious one pan meal.

June 25 - Newton Hills State Park, Canton, South Dakota

Today we leave the state of Iowa behind. Still exhausted from the last two days we opt out of any stops today and go straight to the campground to relax.

For days now we've been traveling through the heartland of America traversing endless miles of farm land throughout Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and now into South Dakota. Mostly crops of corn and some soybeans. Cursory research about the Corn Belt reveals the majority of corn, about 75%, is for livestock feed and ethanol production. The rest is for processed foods such as cereal and corn syrup, and exports, with only about 1-2% for human consumption such as sweet corn. The majority of commercial farms grow corn with seeds they buy from big seed companies who develop hybrid varieties that result in greater yield and resistance to environmental factors. In turn, the seed companies own the genetic traits and the right to reproduce the seeds. Farmers don't own the seeds and agree not to use them the following season or keep or sell them to anyone. This can be a disadvantage for organic farmers and small family farms due to cost and potential litigation if their crop yields cross pollinated corn that has hybrid genetic traits. It's complicated and I'm no expert so Google it if you're curious. Back to regularly scheduled programming :).

We have been taking the back roads that typically go through farm lands.

Many of these farms use wind turbines for renewable energy and extra income. The vast plains of the Midwest provide favorable conditions.

So many sizes and shapes of farms. Some with silos others with grain elevators and big commercial ones with both.

June 27 - Snake Creek State Park, Platte, South Dakota

Today are quirky tourist destination is The World's only Corn Palace, in Mitchell, SD. This large venue is also a concert and event hall but during the day it's filled with a market that sells tourist merchandise. There are massive corn murals inside and out and a small historical display about the palace and surrounding area. We grab a corn dog for lunch and go on our way.

The campground is right in the Missouri River and we have a nice view from our site. We take a nice walk along the water before dinner. There are a lot of fisherman on the lake in small boats and people swimming at a small beach. Weather rolls in so we watch some TV and called it a day.

In the morning we see a few fishermen cleaning a mound of fish at an elaborate cleaning table and stop for a quick chat.

These guys had quite a haul but they said they only caught about a third of what they usually do. Their catch included white bass, catfish, and walleye. The metal structure in the center of the table is a fish grinder.

June 28 - Badlands National Park, South Dakota.

Today the forecast calls for a high of 95 and a low of 59. We arrive at the very crowded visitor center around noon. The landscape here is surreal, especially with the backdrop of the lightly colored mountain like formations against the bright blue cloudless sky. It's awe-inspiring. Before setting out on the scenic driving loop that provides an excellent overview of the geological features and wildlife we stop at the Cedar Lodge cafe for their Indian Fry Bread Buffalo Chili Taco.

The drive is about 25 miles long and on the way we spot some buffalo in the distance and a few prairie dogs but it's hot and midday. Not a great time for spotting wildlife. The expanse of the Badlands is striking and what looks like other worldly mountains are soft, sedimentary rock formations eroded by wind and water forming buttes and spires. But the environment also has much diversity and changes dramatically as we progress eventually ending up at Sage Creek campground on the very outskirts of the park boundary in the surrounding prairies, a stark contrast to the start of the route.

This campground seems stark made up of mostly caked dirt with no shade. Also there is no water or electric so this is essentially boondocking. The climate is arid and the gravel road with dry hot wind produces a lot of dust when cars approach the camping loop. Oh and it's HOT!! We have a generator to run the AC but we know the temps are going to drop and we want to be outside in nature. Once settled into a spot we grab our chairs and go to one of the sun shelters. The temp in the shade is forgiving and even the wind doesn't seem so hot. Bella doesn't notice the heat because she is out of her mind obsessed with the dozens of prairie dogs who pop out of their holes, chirp and bark at her, and disappear. Shortly thereafter a thunder storm comes rolling in but just in advance of it comes a skin blistering sand storm. We grab everything and run to the van and are horrified with how much silty sand came through the screens covering everything. But it cools things down immensely. We wipe everything off, the sun comes out, and we go back to our spot under the sun shelters.

We have dinner and take a walk after during which time the campground begins filling up. Another storm batters the campground in the night and we feel for the tent and car campers. In the morning we get up and out early because that is the time to see wildlife.

Badlands National Park

The scenic drive has many pullouts with stunning views.

Weather starts to roll in at the Sage Creek campground.

These campground prairie dogs are not shy at all.

This is the scene right before the wind storm.

On our after dinner walk we trekked up to a lookout that gave us a nice view of the campground and surrounding prairie.

Sunrise at the campground

Bella is a kid magnet and it was fun to chat with these young campers.

June 29 - Bison Gap National Grasslands, Wall, South Dakota

We skip breakfast and get on the road from Badlands campground by 7 am. This early departure is for two reasons, one, we want to see some wildlife and two, we want to beat the crowds and get to Wall Drug early and have one of their famous donuts with a 5 cent cup of coffee. This time of day the lighting is beautiful, the critters are plentiful, and the cars are few. Pretty perfect.

We arrive at Wall Drug around 8 and the crowds are not here yet. Wall Drug is a huge tourist attraction but being that it's Sunday morning and lightly raining things are pretty quiet. This place is blocks long with souvenirs, restaurants, candy stores, all in a cowboy/old west setting. We have Bella who is not allowed in the dining room but Jonathan finds a nice covered sitting spot while I grab breakfast to go.

Today is laundry day and when we get to the laundromat we are the only ones there. We fill up 4 washers doing all the linens, rugs and the dog bed. By now the place is full and people are waiting in line for washers. Jonathan folds the laundry and I clean the last of the sand out of the van and we're out of there in short order.

Bison Gap National Grasslands is not far and we head there to grab a spot in the dispersed camping area. It's like a mini Badlands and our favorite site yet. Walking along the rim road along the campsites has expansive views of Badlands like structures that fade into prairie habitat in the far distance.

In the morning we wake up to cows grazing all around the area. They are as curious as we are and I think they think that Bella is one of them. It was a delightful way to start the day. After breakfast and a walk we head to our next stop.

We are on the road for one minute and we see this lone guy.

This turkey crossed the road just in front of us.

We spot a large herd of Bison off in the distance.

Early morning brings about subtle lighting and rich colors.

Weather is moving in as we make our way to Wall.

This is one of the first things we see as we enter the town of Wall.

No problem parking this morning and Bella Vato fits right into a regular parking space. We get a nice space right in the heart of things.

Waiting on our breakfast order. Everything coming out of the window looks pretty yummy.

Everything is delicious! Especially that doughnut.

All remnants of the sand storm are officially gone.

We are gob smacked when we arrive at Bison Gap National Grassland National Forest. If you look closely you can see all the campers on the rim.

Sunset at our site.

Bella is amused with the cows.

We are the third camper on the right.

On our way to Custer State Park we come up on a Bison herd.

This guy is also home to a few birds.

We've seen a lot of hay bales in farm country but this is the most at once.

Well Maps definitely took us on the back roads with this 8 mile stretch of gravel road.

June 30 - Custer State Park, Black Hills Region, South Dakota

On the way to our campground we're going to make a detour along the way to see Mount Rushmore National Monument. As we near the park we can begin to get glimpses of the magnificent sculptures. Viewing the iconic monument from inside the park is spectacular.

The drive to Center Lake campground is only about 30 miles but it is on a steep and winding road so it takes us well over an hour but the scenery is beautiful. For the passenger. Bella Vato handles much like a regular car but with challenging road conditions the driver really has to have both hands on the wheel and both eyes on the road ahead. We arrive at our site to find someone in it. Huh. I inadvertently reserved the site for the following day. Jonathan calls the State Park 800 number and out of the 9 campgrounds within the park there is 1 site left! Whew.

After we get settled we go on a much needed hike around the lake, have an easy dinner of Italian sausage and peppers and turn in early.

The next morning we head out early to do the 32 mile wildlife drive and stop for a 3 mile hide at Prairie trail along the way. Next stop is Wind Cave National Park.

Mount Rushmore National Monument

The hall of flags at the monument.

On the way back to the van we find a little trail to walk Bella and the view is pretty good!

Bella's always happy to fetch a stick especially when it involves swimming.

Center Lake campground, Custer State Park.

We spot a good size herd of Bison on the Custer SP wildlife drive.

This guy is definitely in charge.

Jonathan saw this turkey out of the corner of his eye. Got it!

Prong horn grazing on the flowers.

It's wrong to feed wildlife. Period. There were so many people out of their cars with bags of carrots taking selfies. This boy was taunting the wild donkey and was lucky not to have been kicked or bitten.

Prairie Loop hike at Custer SP

Prairie Loop hike at Custer SP was a challenging 3 miles with a couple of hundred feet of elevation. It was cool-ish when we set out but quite hot by the time we finished.