PNW Week 3

July 1 - Wind Cave National Park

This is our last stop in South Dakota and home to the 6th longest cave in the world. This site has great significance for the Lakota People who believe that it's where their emergence from the spirit world began. The National Park Service honors their heritage. When we arrive at the visitor center it's mid-day, crowded, and hot.  We talk to the ranger who gives us some tips for some good hikes nearby. 

We drive to the campground a mile up the road within the park boundary. There is no electric so we situate Bella Vato in the only small patch of shade, put out the awning to create our own and relax in the breeze. Not bad. Later in the evening we attend a talk by the ranger about prairie lands.

In the morning we leave the site by 6:30 to a hike that takes us by the Lakota sacred cave site then out to the prairie. As we drive out of the park to head to Wyoming we see one last lone bison. 

State Park camp grounds frown upon unleashed dogs and this is Bella's best stink eye for being tethered.

Ranger Dave's talk on the ecology and conservation of the prairie, the primary ecosystem.

A sweet bunny greeting us at our campsite.

Sunrise at Wind Cave campground.

The very small opening to the lower left of the sign is the cave opening where the Lakota People believe they emerged from the spirit world. The strips of cloth on the trees are prayer ties and meant to be undisturbed as they are a sacred offering to the Great Spirit.

In the distance you can see a long line of people waiting to sign up for the 80 cave tour slots that are released each day as first come, first serve when the visitor center opens in an hour.

This bison bids us farewell as we leave South Dakota.

July 2 - Big Horn National Forest,  Wyoming

We have some miles to cover today. Shortly after we cross into Wyoming we come to the small town of Upton and we spot Remy's Diner. It has a perfect shady parking spot for leaving Bella in the van and we are past ready for breakfast. Since it's mid morning this will be breakfast and lunch.

We drive through several more small towns before jumping on I-90 west. The speed limit is 80 but typically we keep Bella Vato at around 65. Driving on the e-way is much different out here than back east. It feels so much safer without extreme speeders or erratic lane changers. And even though the summer season is in full swing the road isn't crowded. 

As we progress west  the temps are climbing and the outside temp indicator on the dash shows 95 degrees. But soon Jonathan spots a snow topped mountain range way off in the distance! First, though, we need a few groceries and gas. We learn that here in Gillette they have a car and truck wash that also has a pet wash station. It is so cool!

Back on the road and getting close to the dispersed camp site in Big Horn National Forest we start climbing in elevation. We are much closer to the snow topped mountain range now and the temps have dropped to 84.

There are only a half dozen other campers here and the view is stunning. And it's free! After getting settled we take a 2 mile hike. It starts to rain and by the time we get back to the van we're drenched. All part of the charm. We have an easy dinner of a bagged Caesar salad and sauteed salmon. 

We get up early, have a quick coffee and head out on a 4 mile hike. We spot a prong horn and it spots us and starts to retreat in a leaping/bounding motion across the meadow. In doing so it is disturbing dozens of birds that are foraging in the tall grasses. We could hear birds but could not see them up until now. 

We have a leisurely morning eating breakfast and doing a few chores before heading out to our next destination.

Serving locals the atmosphere and food are great. The menu claimed "Best home made hash browns" and they weren't kidding. I had a half order of biscuits and gravy and Jonathan had the Mexican Omelette. We're definitely set until dinner. 

Bella Vato definitely needed some love. Down the drain goes all the dust from the Badlands.

Same for Bella. I forgot how black she is because slowly over the last few weeks her hair is more of a grayish color. She is not happy during the bath but once it's over she becomes frisky.

Is that snow on top of those mountains??? Yes!!

Lots of swinging room at this dispersed camping site with the Big Horn mountain range in the background.

The double rainbow after getting caught in the rain was a beautiful sight.

Sunset at Big Horn National Forest

Prong horns are the fastest mammal in the North America reaching a top speed of 60 mph and a sustained speed of 50. It was gone in a flash.

The meadow at Big Horn NF is alive with wild flowers.

It is much cooler down in the canyon but that never stops Bella from going for a swim.

 A rushing Brush Creek down in the canyon. We could hear it roaring shortly after we started the descent.

The wild flowers are abundant and bring a lot of color to the meadows and bottom lands. The tea roses were quite a surprise.

Jonathan calls the ranger for our next stop, Shoshone National Forest, and gets an excellent recommendation for campsites while the bagels are grilling for breakfast.

We're not roughing it with bagels and cream cheese, capers, pickled red onions,and smoked salmon. 

July 3 Boysen State Park Lower Wind River Campground Shoshoni, Wyoming

The drive from Bighorn National Forest to Shoshoni is about 120 miles and takes us through a variety of geological and ecological landscapes.  Coming over the Bighorn mountain range puts Bella Vato to the test. Jonathan says the van is not overburdened with power but she's a pretty good climber. We need confidence in her as we progress to much higher mountain ranges. The descent through Big Horn takes us through the Powder River Pass. The elevation is 9,666 feet and provides views of the switchbacks, canyons, and valleys below. It's spectacular! From there we go through ranch lands As we near Wind River Canyon we go through a series of 3 successive tunnels and when we exit the last one we arrive at the campground. Our site is right on the Wind River with a path to access the shore. But the best part of our view are the tunnels cut into the mountain sides on each side of the river.

These mountain roads are steep, curvy, and flanked with stunning scenery.

As we descent in altitude the landscape becomes desert-like.

The farm lands here need irrigation to survive. 

The road parallels the Wind River and the railroad tracks as we get closer to our destination.

Three rugged tunnels in succession cut into the mountains.

Our campsite is right on the Wind River.

Resident turkeys fed by the campground host. They don't even flinch at the sight of Bella.

The views from the campground.

The view from our campsite with the train tunnel on the left and the car tunnel on the right. 

One of many fly fisherman we see trying their luck in the Wind River.

July 4 Falls Campground, Shoshone Nation Forest, Dubois, Wyomoing

While we're enjoying a leisurely breakfast we finally hear hear a train coming. As it approaches we see it has 6 engines pulling the cars through the rugged and mountainous terrain. We pack up and get on the road to our next campground about 3 hours away. The scenery changes in both elevation and ecology as we traverse through valleys, farmlands, canyons, dense forests, and mountain ridges all within about 130 miles. 

The train approaching the tunnel needs the power to climb through the rugged landscapes ahead.

Mackeral sky

This is bear country and according to the campground host, a Mama grizzly and her cub have been spotted in the campground. There are bear boxes for any food items not in a hard sided vehicle.

We set out on a hike from our campsite that goes along a cataract canyon and the water is rushing.

The visibility is clear and we have an expansive view of the valley below and beyond.

Bella approves of no fireworks! On our hike we see evidence of moose (droppings and prints), wild flowers, and even a wild strawberry plant.

 

We get caught in a pelting rain storm a mile and a half into the hike so we have to hike back that far in the storm in less than adequate rain gear. There is thunder and lightning all around. Nothing to do but trudge on.

We hang everything out and in this arid climate it is dry by morning.

My awesome trainer, Elaine, has agreed to do some sessions with me via teleconference. She put me through a rigorous core session and I feel it for the next few days!

Dinner tonight is a grilled shrimp, veggies, and rice bowl.  

July 5 - Fireside Resort, Jackson Hole Campground, Wyoming

Today our destination is Grand Teton National Park. About 15 minutes into the drive we crest Togwotee Pass at 9,655 feet and get our first glimpse of the magnificent Teton mountain range! We stop at the over look and meet a couple of cyclists who are 3 weeks into their trek from the Mexican border where they are following the Continental Divide trail. On bicycles with no ground support!!!!! We feel like whimps.

Once in the park our first stop is the Snake River overlook where Ansel Adams took his iconic photo of Grand Telton and the Snake River and we're standing right in the same spot. We drive to the visitor center about a half hour away to get the lay of the land, never losing sight of the panoramic mountain views and stopping at various pullouts.

Tonight we are staying at the Firefly RV Campground and Resort in Jackson Hole, right on doorstep of the National Park. This gives us the chance to get groceries, run errands, have lunch out, and do laundry. We stop at a Mexican restaurant and then walk to the nearby Orvis, Ace Hardware where we finally get some bear spray, and then on Albertsons to provision. Jackson Hole is known for being one of the most expensive places to live in the country and prices are high here. 

We get settled in our site, throw in the laundry, and chill out. For dinner we walk to an Italian restaurant only 5 minutes away with excellent reviews. We grab 2 seats at the bar, order a bottle of wine and an appetizer that was one of the most delicious renditions of bruschetta ever.

Still about a half hour from the NP boundary the views of the iconic Tetons come to life. The kiosk here at Togwotee Pass is where we meet the cyclists. It has excellent story boards about this important trade route for the native tribes.

 

Bella Vato with sweeping views of the Teton range in the background.

The closer we get the bigger they get!

This is a good example of storyboards throughout the park depicting the significance of the view.

My attempt at getting a similar shot to Ansel Adams. Hey give me a break all my pictures are taken with my cell phone. No regrets.

A beautiful moose sculpture at the visitor center.

Lunch is amazing. Molcajete, named for the dish in which it's served, is a favorite and we order when available. This place makes their own tortillas! We took enough food home for another meal.

The grounds at Firefly.

This little magpie at our site is looking for a handout.

The bruschetta at Calico is crazy good. Perfectly toasted crostini with a whole head of roasted garlic, freshly made pesto, balsamic tomatoes, and a big dollop of aoli. After our big lunch this was dinner.

Seated next to Jonathan is a local cowboy who shared stories of the area. He

 is a rancher and bull rider and quite an interesting and colorful character. Fun!

July 6 - Grassy Lake Road Dispersed Camping Site, Teton County, Wyoming

We get to the National Park early in hopes of seeing some wildlife and to avoid the crowds. We drive through the park stopping at various pullouts to learn about the geology. The storyboards at each site describe the significance of what we're seeing. We arrive at the Coulter Bay Marina. We toy with the idea of renting a skiff but sadly no dogs allowed. I'm starting to see why there are so many fake service dogs... We have a quick slice of surprisingly good wood fired pizza and slow walk our way out of the park stopping at overlooks.

We saw a few bison, some mule deer, and shore birds. And apparently we just missed a mother black bear with a few cubs. But the geology more than makes up for it. We leave the park boundary and the road turns into the John D. Rockefeller Parkway that traverses through an 8 mile stretch of wilderness connecting the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. There are several free dispersed camping sites. The first one is full but the second one is empty. Home for the night right on the Snake River and a gateway location to Yellowstone, our destination for tomorrow. 

On the drive from Firefly Resort to the NP.

The snow mass center left is a glacier. We were lucky enough to be near a tour guide who was happy to share insights with us and mentioned that this was the first full sun, blue bird sky day in over a week. 

And here we are at Jenny lake. This is a picnic area we pulled into and at 8 am we are the only ones here to enjoy these beautiful views.

Jenny Lake in the stillness of the morning.

Bella takes every opportunity for a dip. We encourage it because this helps combat the dust in her coat since Badlands. 

Here at the Coulter Bay Marina there are slips and mooring balls. We reflect back on our days aboard and wonder what boating here would be like.

These large boats are trucked in and launched at the launch ramp.

Shockingly delicious pizza at the cafe near the Marina. Look at the leoparding on the crust!

This is the view from our dispersed camp site.

A different view.

We are fortunate to get this great site right on the Snake River. But we've learned that with these no reservation dispersed camp sites to start our days sightseeing early and get to a campsite no later than mid afternoon to secure a spot.

We put on our water shoes, Jonathan grabs the bear spray and we hike on the banks of the Snake River which parallels our camp site.

Lots of wildlife evidence but none to be seen.

Not a bear, a Bella.

Luckily this wilderness campsite is only a few miles from the NP and when an older lady in the camper had a medical emergency they were dispatched right way. It was serious enough that she was taken to the hospital.  

 

A perfect setting for Paddle boarders, kayaks, canoes, and fly fishermen.

This campsite is designated for 2 campers. When we wake up in the morning for our early morning departure to Yellowstone we wonder if we can manage to shoehorn ourselves out of here.